Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Inside Out...

The South Bay gets good... When you can get it in the middle of winter, on a sunny day with no one around, it is that much better.



That is Matt Vaughn looking in on a decent size day at the Wedge... This was a few weeks ago and I can still feel the beating that came soon after this photo was taken. I got caught inside on what I will call "a big set" for fear of sounding as though I am embellishing. After the beating, it threw me onto the sand with a broken waterhousing and a smile.



Early season Wedge, sun and no one around... It can happen.
My favorite spot in all of Los Angeles... This was about a month after getting my first waterhousing and I was so stoked to be shooting water on a solid day, I disregarded myself and even though I am happy with the outcome of this image, the beating was angry.

My favorite spot again... I swam out about 45 minutes before the sun came up, by myself in known sharky waters. Yeah, probably not gonna do that again.

Southside Manhattan Beach. My buddy Jeff Yusa and I were jonesing for some waves early last season and found this bar just reeling on the Southside. Good times. Yusa has his shots from this day on his blog liquidplayground.blogspot.com.
Good morning my friends... In honor of my waterhousing, which is being completely overhauled by the great team at Del Mar Housing Projects, I am posting a few of my favorite types of images. The inside out. It's truly a view only a surfer knows the feeling of. This is why people grab their waveriding vehicle of choice, be it a surfboard, bodyboard, kneeboard or their own body, and go out for a surf. To get barreled. Ask any waverider and they will say the same thing... The barrel is the place to be. Even today's generation of learning airs before anything else, love the barrel.

Hopefully these images bring a smile to your face and a good outlook on the day. Southern California has been plagued by grumpy south winds everyday and it has just completely hacked these recent set of swells. They say August is looking better condition wise. Let's hope we have a couple days of classic California summer conditions before Fall comes. Which actually is an amazing time for California too.

I am happy to be back on blogger with my friends... I must say it was seeing the daily reports by my friends Lee and Sal at their dedicated blogs, teamstoked.blogspot.com and rightplaceattherighttime.blogspot.com, that motivated me to jump back into the game. Thanks guys for your dedication.

Aloha my friends for your support and continuing to return to check out my images and ramblings... Smile and be good to each other. Family and Friends make the World go 'round, everything else is secondary. Care for those around you regardless of who they are.

- JP

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