So very frustrated with these non-stop summer flat spells and on-shore winds... It has been 5 weeks since I have surfed. Now, that is not to say there has not been surfable waves in 5 weeks, there have been, I have just been out of the water for Family reasons.
That being said, it has been no bigger than shoulder high the whole time with persistent on-shore winds, so the temptation has not been there one bit. Not one bit at all. I have in my surfing hiatus, decided to focus more on the stand up variety of wave riding. Bodyboarding is my sport, but it takes a certain type of wave to really be functional in, and well, there is not a single one of those anywhere around here right now.
I went into my hard drive and pulled up what I was shooting at this time last year... Guess what? It was crappy last summer too!!! This image was taken last August in Newport Beach. Gray skies, on-shore winds and small waves... Just like right now. I was motivated by the fact that my September 2010 file was filled with glassy barrels from right down the street.
A Hurricane is churning up some swell in the Eastern Pacific right now... They say head high + from this one, we shall see. Hopefully come Saturday my entry will be smiles and exclamation points with photo's of perfect southern perfection, or better yet, just a text entry because I surfed all day!
I hope everyone had a great weekend and a good Monday... Go out and get a couple if Eugene decides to be a giving Storm.
Aloha - JP

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