Good evening my friends! It has been a couple of months since my last post, this has been due to a few reasons... Mostly a Family issue which required my constant focus and ultimately the lack of good waves,
Fall is upon us and Mother Nature did not disappoint. A nice combo swell paid a visit to the shores of California and it finally mixed with perfect conditions and not the gloomy marine layer we have come to know and loathe. The trek south was full of hope as there was not a cloud in the sky and the flags were reaching out towards the ocean, always a good thing. The air was crisp and mixed with the offshore wind made my choice of a 4/3 a bit of an overkill as the water is still fairly warm.
The waves were an inconsistent 3'-5' with a few sneaky overhead sets coming in. It felt so good to be shooting water again, I had just received my freshly repaired waterhousing in the mail from Del Mar Housing Projects the day before and felt like a grom running down the beach.
There are a few promising swells lining up over the next week. I hope you all find your little nook and cranny to make you wash the stress away. Hopefully you all scored some waves this weekend and are having a great start to the work week. See you all out there!!!
Aloha - JMP
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