Good to Be Back...

Good evening my friends! It has been a couple of months since my last post, this has been due to a few reasons... Mostly a Family issue which required my constant focus and ultimately the lack of good waves,


Fall is upon us and Mother Nature did not disappoint. A nice combo swell paid a visit to the shores of California and it finally mixed with perfect conditions and not the gloomy marine layer we have come to know and loathe. The trek south was full of hope as there was not a cloud in the sky and the flags were reaching out towards the ocean, always a good thing. The air was crisp and mixed with the offshore wind made my choice of a 4/3 a bit of an overkill as the water is still fairly warm.

The waves were an inconsistent 3'-5' with a few sneaky overhead sets coming in. It felt so good to be shooting water again, I had just received my freshly repaired waterhousing in the mail from Del Mar Housing Projects the day before and felt like a grom running down the beach.

There are a few promising swells lining up over the next week. I hope you all find your little nook and cranny to make you wash the stress away. Hopefully you all scored some waves this weekend and are having a great start to the work week. See you all out there!!!

Aloha - JMP

On-Shore Madness...

So very frustrated with these non-stop summer flat spells and on-shore winds... It has been 5 weeks since I have surfed. Now, that is not to say there has not been surfable waves in 5 weeks, there have been, I have just been out of the water for Family reasons.

That being said, it has been no bigger than shoulder high the whole time with persistent on-shore winds, so the temptation has not been there one bit. Not one bit at all. I have in my surfing hiatus, decided to focus more on the stand up variety of wave riding. Bodyboarding is my sport, but it takes a certain type of wave to really be functional in, and well, there is not a single one of those anywhere around here right now.

I went into my hard drive and pulled up what I was shooting at this time last year... Guess what? It was crappy last summer too!!! This image was taken last August in Newport Beach. Gray skies, on-shore winds and small waves... Just like right now. I was motivated by the fact that my September 2010 file was filled with glassy barrels from right down the street.

A Hurricane is churning up some swell in the Eastern Pacific right now... They say head high + from this one, we shall see. Hopefully come Saturday my entry will be smiles and exclamation points with photo's of perfect southern perfection, or better yet, just a text entry because I surfed all day!

I hope everyone had a great weekend and a good Monday... Go out and get a couple if Eugene decides to be a giving Storm.

Aloha - JP